Video Overview | Mahlkonig EK43 Burr Alignment Tool

Mahlkonig EK43 Burr Alignment Tool


Hey, folks, it's Steve with Prima Coffee. Today, we're taking a look at the burr alignment tool for the EK43 series by Mahlkonig. It is a simple set of tools that will help you radially align your EK43 burrs. So, what you get in this kit is a couple of different parts. The main one is this tool. This is a piece of aluminum and it has, sort of, three fingers on it. Those fingers are important for actually, kind of, grabbing the outer edge of your burrs and aligning them with either the actual drive shafts of the grinder or centering them on the burr carrier/pre-breaker, or whatever you prefer to call that. So this is the actual alignment tool itself. What you also get is a steel rod, which you may not need to use but it just kind of depends on when your grinder was manufactured. You get, obviously, an instruction book, and there's actually some really great illustrations in here that show you exactly what you need to do for each step and it's really clearly explained, so really nice and easy to follow along with that.

Mahlkonig EK43 Burr Alignment Tool

Radially align both burrs in your EK43, EK43S, or EKK43

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You also get a little packet of lubricant just in case you need to replace the lube on your drive shaft and on the shear plate inside your grinder. So what you also need in order to actually align your burrs, you're going to need a slotted screwdriver and we'd recommend probably having some dry cleaning materials like a brush and a cloth, because if you've been using your grinder and you're servicing it or installing a new set of burrs or something like that, you're probably going to need to clean it out a bit, and working with a clean grinder is the best way to make sure that your burrs are actually well aligned. Before I actually start showing you how this works, I do want to explain that radially aligning your burrs is not the only way to align your burrs. If you have concerns about grind consistency, this may not be the solution that you need. What this tool does is it centers the outer edge of the burrs, and along the center of the drive shaft, and on the burr carrier itself. So basically, it makes the edges of the burrs agree with each other. It does not ensure that they are perfectly parallel or that there is no, like, axial tilt.

So, there might conceivably be some other issues. There could be some warping in your burrs. There could be all kinds of other problems. So, this is one means of aligning the burrs in your grinder and it is pretty important. I just want to make sure that we understand that there's a few different other ways to align your burrs, if that should be something you need to do. So, the first thing I'm going to do is I'm going to take off the face plate of my grinder. Just need to loosen some slotted screws here. This is a pretty easy first step. And that just gets me access to the grind chamber and the burrs themselves. So, this whole faceplate is going to come right off and I need to make sure that I'm holding it so it doesn't fall and break anything. But there's just two screws and they're pretty simple to take off. So, I'm going to first remove this shear plate. You don't need to but it can help, kind of, allow things to move a little bit more freely. So this is kind of greasy, you just want to set it aside some place clean. And then, I'm going to use just the tip of the screwdriver to, kind of, gently pries the pre-breaker out of the grinder.

It can help if you have two to, kind of, get two points where you're able to pull. Really, you need it to come forward just like a couple of millimeters and then you should be able to grab it with your fingers. Okay, so I've got my burr carrier out, and I'm going to actually work on this rotating burr first. So, first step is to just loosen these three screws. I don't need to remove them fully unless, of course, I wanted to take it out and clean it. But my burrs, I cleaned them prior to starting this process so I'm just going to loosen these three screws, just a couple of turns. Basically, what I want is a little bit of motion in that burr because the next step that we're going to do for this particular burr carrier... This is a modern, what we call a post 2018 burr carrier. It is anodized black aluminum. The previous steel burr carriers have a slightly different size and shape. So we actually have a slightly different step for those older ones versus these newer black carriers. What I'm going to do is I'm going to actually take the steel rod, I'm going to insert it into the hole in the center and then I'm going to line up the tool. I have two cutouts that I need to make sure are aligned.

So, you can see there's sort of a cutout going straight across here and then I have just kind of mirrored on the burr carrier itself are these two cutouts. So, I want to make sure that those two slots line up with that. However, this burr or this tool is not going to slide fully over the burr carrier. It would, on the steel versions, it would actually, sort of, click into place but, again, the dimensions are slightly different. So what I've been able to do now is with this rod is going straight through the tool, and that is ensuring that both of these are centered on the same axis, which means that my three little fingers now are holding my burr in place where I want it. I'm actually going to rotate it slightly just for, kind of, aesthetic purposes, but I'm mainly trying to get my screws to line up more or less centered in their holes. And from there, all you need to do is actually tighten them down again. What I prefer to do is tighten them loosely each one at a time and then kind of go back and tighten them down more fully. I feel that that helps ensure that your position is maintained. The fingers do hold it into place but, again, I am trying to sort of hold those screws more or less in the center of their cutouts, and tightening one could shift that a little bit on me. All right, all three are nice and tight. I just need to push that rod out.

I can set that aside, I'm done with it. And then, I'll pull my tool off. So that is the rotating burr done. I can set that aside. In order to address the stationary burr, I am going to actually take the tool and slide it right over the drive shaft and, kind of, basically repeat that process. What I'm going to do first, though, is set the grinder down, kind of, on its back just so it's a little bit easier for me to work. All right. It's quite heavy so be careful. And we're going to repeat the same process. So, I'm going to loosen my three screws just a couple of turns. And again, I just basically want there to be a little tiny bit of play in my burr. Now, I can take my tool and, like I said, just slide it right over that drive shaft. I might need to shove my burr a little bit out of the way here. And then, what I can do is I can actually spin this and that kind of make sure that I have three-point contact around the outside of the burr, which sort of just helps center it. And then, actually, I don't need to do anything. I was looking again to make sure those screws were centered in their cutouts and then basically just kind of tighten it down. So, really, really simple here.

The tool makes very quick and easy work of making sure that your burrs are centered again radially with the drive shaft as a reference point. Really, really quick and easy to do. All right, final little tighten and we're good. I'll pull my tool off and I'm good to reassemble the grinder. I can actually start doing that just from here. I'll take my burr carrier, slide it back into place. I'll take my shear plate, slide that in. Good. And then, our faceplate and screws, I can slide that back on. Now, if I had cleaned off too much grease in the process or maybe my, you know, just the drive shaft and the shear plate itself weren't well-greased before I started assembling the grinder again, that's where this packet would come in handy. You just dispense a little bit. You probably don't... It's a one gram pack, you probably don't even need half of it to re-grease the drive shaft. You don't need much at all, just kind of enough to coat a fingertip. Get it around the drive shaft, get a little bit inside the burr carrier itself in that channel, and then a little bit on the shear plate, and that'll help keep everything nice and greased.

You do want to re-grease the grinder periodically anyway, so hold on to that and that'll make sure everything's working nice and smoothly. So there we are. We very quickly and easily aligned those burrs, again, radially so their edges, sort of, agree with each other and match up. Like I said earlier, if there are other issues with your uniformity or just your grind consistency in general, you may want to look at other means of aligning your burrs or addressing them. It's not a super common problem, but if you have some issues, you might want to look at other means. Radial alignment is typically most often needed when you are replacing burrs or servicing the grinder in such a way that you have removed the burrs to get under them and clean them. It's just a good way to make sure that you are aligning everything so your grinder is set up to grind perfectly once it's back and assembled. So that is the Mahlkonig burr alignment kit for the EK43 series. Thanks for watching.

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